Product Description
45mm Square Straight Stub Axle in slimline profile is commonly used on larger wide trailers and caravans.Stub axle is rated to 775kg per stub or 1450kg for a pair of stub axles.
Bearing Sizes are
- Inner ID 35.00mm, OD 59.10mm
- Outer ID 22.00mm, OD 45.20mm
- Seal ID 43.9mm, OD 59.10mm
- Grease Cap 45.20mm
Products Description:
- Capacity(T):2
- Track(mm):375
- Beam(mm):45×45
- Brake Size(mm):No
- Stubs:5xM16
- PCDxCBD(mm):140×94
- Bearing:35715-35719
- Weight(Kg):13
| Part Number | Wheel Load | Axle Load | PCD | Center Bore Diameter |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| TA012 | 1000 kgs | 2000KG | 5-140 | 94MM |
BUILDING A STRAIGHT BEAM AXLE – SHIM METHOD
NOTE – Building your own axles should only be undertaken by a skilled and proficient welder. Good weld penetration with no porosity or undercut is required to ensure the strength and integrity of the axle is not compromised. If you have any doubts about your skills, leave axle building to the professionals, poorly built and poorly welded axles can cause accidents and kill people.
Straight Beam Axle Setup – Shim Method
There are many ways of setting up stub axles within axle tubes correctly, the following is a tried and tested method that almost anyone with minimal equipment can accomplish.
Getting the stub axles perfectly parallel and true to each other is the difficult part of building your own axle. Getting it wrong will cause a multitude of problems, from poor trailer tracking behind the tow vehicle, premature bearing failure, excessive tyre wear, blowouts and even broken stub axles.
If like most home workshops, you will be lacking a lathe with a 4 jaw chuck and head bore to handle a 50 x 50 piece of axle tube or have a bed length to cope with a full length trailer axle, so you will have to improvise to compensate.
If you are not using machined line pipe for your axle tubes, you will need the following equipment –
• Vernier calipers with internal jaws
• A new tape measure (no wear/sloppiness and easier to read)
• Selection of shim steel including some various sizes of panel steel 0.5 to 1.0mm thick
• Tin snips/shears and scissors (don’t use your wifes ones!)
• Soft face hammer (a shot filled hammer is ideal)
• Set of flat files
• Square
• Flat straight work surface
Ideally you want to get a cheap set of bearings to match the good ones in you new hubs. Using a brass or mild steel drift, carefully remove the good bearing cups from the hubs (put them away somewhere nice and clean) and fit the cheapies. You will need the hubs to be dry fitted (no grease) to the stub axles later on to double check measurements and it is preferable not to do any welding or dusty work in and around your good bearings.
A note about welding axles – to prevent damage to the hub, bearings and stub axle, earthing the axle must be done through the axle tube only. If necessary, tack weld a tab or bolt to the axle tube to allow easy attachment of the earth clamp.
An issue with using ERW/welded pipe as axle tubing is the seam weld internally running the length of the pipe. You can work around this if the seam is of a consistent depth or offset from the centreline of the section (SHS only), but the best thing is to get rid of it. If you are CZPT to access one, beg, borrow or buy an electric file (like a belt sander in miniature). This will considerably reduce the time, frustration and damaged fingers from doing the job manually.
The second best option is to tack weld a 250mm long, 2nd cut or bastard file CZPT the end of a length of 25 x 25 hollow section or similar. This will give the file extra leverage and cutting power and assists in getting deep inside the axle tube.
Clamp the axle tube to whatever will hold it steady and with the seam at the bottom, pass the modified file over the seam and file it flat. You will only need to file around 150-200mm of the seam at each end of the axle tube, but take care that you do not file past the seam especially at the outer edge of the tube. Here there is a tendency to taper off at the opening.
Axle tube length for straight beam axles is pretty straight forward, if the stub axle has a hydraulic caliper yoke or drum brake backing plate mount, the axle tube can butt up against the flat surface of these and welded around. This doesn’t work in all situations, and you may need to set the axle tube 20 mm or more back from the yoke/plate to get good stub axle alignment and weld penetration.
If a non braking stub axle is being fitted, the axle tube should not be closer than 25mm from the seal shoulder (the last bit of machined surface).
With the hub dry fitted (with the cheap bearings), measure from the hub face back to the 25mm mark on the stub axle. Double this measurement and subtract it from the original hub to hub face measurement. This is the axle tube length.
Once the axle tube has been cut to length, remove any burrs inside and outside and if required, file the internal seam flat.
Drill a couple of plug holes in the axle tube at least 12mm diameter, preferably larger so that the stub axle can be secured at the back end with some good welds.
With the Vernier calipers, measure across the inside flats of the axle tube and the diameter of the stub axle. Find the difference between the 2 (the total gap) and divide by 2.
Cut up 4 sets of shims, for each stub axle, to the thickness of the ½ gap measurement. If using a mix of thick and thin shims, try to slip the thin sections inside a sandwich of thicker shims and use a thin layer of grease/oil to help keep the shims together. The shims should ideally be as long as the internal section of stub axle.
Slide the shims and stub axle into the axle tube to assist the stub axle to centralise. With round axle tube, set the shims at either quarters or thirds around the stub axle. On the square axle tube, centre the shims on the flats where the stub axle will contact.
The shims and stub axle should slide nicely into the axle tube and may require a couple of shim adjustments to get right.
Once the stub axle is at the correct position in the axle tube, do a couple of checks to ensure that the hub face to hub face measurement is correct and that the axle tube is central to the hubs.
Tack weld the stub axles in position and start taking 3 or 4 point measurements from hub face to hub face around the hubs. This measurement is critical to getting the hubs exactly parallel to each other. If adjustment is needed, use the soft face hammer to tap the hubs until all measurements are exact.
Lay another tack weld on each stub axle, check your 3 or 4 point measurement and repeat until the stub axle has at least 3 or 4 good tack welds.
Tack weld through the plug weld holes to secure the back end of the stub axle.
Set your welder so that you can lay a good hot penetrating weld (practice on some scrap steel) and fully weld around the stub axle and axle tube. Don’t worry too much about the shims, if you wish to remove them before welding do so, but you can leave them to become part of the axle.
Fill the plug weld holes up until the weld is flush with the top of the axle tube.
Let the axle cool down slowly – do not quench or spray with water! Doing so can cause hardening of the steel around the weld and creating a weak, fatigue prone, stress area.
Once cool, double check the mark at the centre of the axle tube. Remark if necessary and use this to mark out and drill your spring centre holes. Spring centre holes need to be around 15mm diameter. As always, double check your measurements before drilling. In some cases, you may find yourself drilling into the back end of the stub axle. Drill deep enough so that there is clearance for the spring bolt head to fit.
If fitting spring retaining plates, now is the time to weld these on. Welds on spring retaining plates should only be done axially with the axle tube and not across the face of the axle.
Tidy up any slag or welding spatter and file or grind any sharp edges.
Remove the hubs, knock out the cheap bearing cups, give the hubs a good clean and pack and fit the good bearings and seals to your new axles.
If you are painting the axle, use a good zinc rich etch primer coat and a couple of 2 pot enamel top coats to finish off.
If you are plHangZhou on galvanising your axle, drill a 10mm drain hole both ends of the axle tube, at the position where the back end of the stub axle sits. If your spring centre holes line up with the end of the stub axle, this would be a bonus.
HangZhou CZPT Machinery Co., Ltd is a professional manufacturer of trailer parts in HangZhou, ZHangZhoug Province, China since 2016.
We can produce many trailer parts & accessories as follows: Towbars, axles, brake drums, hubs, brake disc, bearings, springs and springs and suspension kits, couplings, mudguards, U-Bolts, Jockey Wheels, keel rollers and brackets, wobble roller, wheel spacer, equalizers and all accessories related to trailers.
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| Application: | Trailer |
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What is the role of axles in electric vehicles, and how do they differ from traditional axles?
Electric vehicles (EVs) have unique requirements when it comes to their drivetrain systems, including the axles. The role of axles in EVs is similar to traditional vehicles, but there are some key differences. Here’s a detailed explanation of the role of axles in electric vehicles and how they differ from traditional axles:
Role of Axles in Electric Vehicles:
The primary role of axles in electric vehicles is to transmit torque from the electric motor(s) to the wheels, enabling vehicle propulsion. The axles connect the motor(s) to the wheels and provide support for the weight of the vehicle. Axles are responsible for transferring the rotational force generated by the electric motor(s) to the wheels, allowing the vehicle to move forward or backward.
In electric vehicles, the axles are an integral part of the drivetrain system, which typically includes an electric motor(s), power electronics, and a battery pack. The axles play a crucial role in ensuring efficient power transfer and delivering the desired performance and handling characteristics of the vehicle.
Differences from Traditional Axles:
While the fundamental role of axles in electric vehicles is the same as in traditional vehicles, there are some notable differences due to the unique characteristics of electric propulsion systems:
1. Integration with Electric Motors: In electric vehicles, the axles are often integrated with the electric motors. This means that the motor(s) and axle assembly are combined into a single unit, commonly referred to as an “electric axle” or “e-axle.” This integration helps reduce the overall size and weight of the drivetrain system and simplifies installation in the vehicle.
2. High Torque Requirements: Electric motors generate high amounts of torque from the moment they start, providing instant acceleration. As a result, axles in electric vehicles need to handle higher torque loads compared to traditional axles. They are designed to withstand the torque output of the electric motor(s) and efficiently transmit it to the wheels.
3. Regenerative Braking: Electric vehicles often utilize regenerative braking, which converts the vehicle’s kinetic energy into electrical energy and stores it in the battery. The axles in electric vehicles may incorporate systems or components that enable regenerative braking, such as sensors, controllers, and electric brake actuators.
4. Space Optimization: Electric vehicles often have different packaging requirements compared to traditional internal combustion engine vehicles. The axles in electric vehicles are designed to accommodate the space constraints and specific layout of the vehicle, considering the placement of the battery pack, electric motor(s), and other components.
5. Weight Considerations: Electric vehicles strive to optimize weight distribution to enhance efficiency and handling. Axles in electric vehicles may be designed with lightweight materials or innovative construction techniques to minimize weight while maintaining structural integrity and durability.
It’s important to note that the specific design and characteristics of axles in electric vehicles can vary depending on the vehicle manufacturer, drivetrain configuration (e.g., front-wheel drive, rear-wheel drive, all-wheel drive), and other factors. Automotive manufacturers and suppliers continually innovate and develop new axle technologies to meet the evolving demands of electric vehicle propulsion systems.
What are the symptoms of a failing CV joint, and how does it relate to the axle?
A CV (constant velocity) joint is an essential component of the axle assembly in many vehicles. When a CV joint starts to fail, it can exhibit several symptoms that indicate potential problems. Here’s a detailed explanation of the symptoms of a failing CV joint and its relationship to the axle:
Symptoms of a Failing CV Joint:
1. Clicking or popping sounds: One of the most common signs of a failing CV joint is a clicking or popping sound when making turns. This noise usually occurs during tight turns and may indicate worn-out or damaged CV joint bearings.
2. Grease leakage: A failing CV joint may leak grease, which can be seen as dark-colored grease splattered around the CV joint or on the inside of the wheel. Grease leakage is typically caused by a cracked or damaged CV joint boot, which allows the lubricating grease to escape and contaminants to enter.
3. Excessive vibration: A worn-out CV joint can cause vibrations, especially during acceleration. The vibrations may be felt in the steering wheel, floorboards, or even the entire vehicle. These vibrations can become more noticeable as the CV joint deteriorates further.
4. Difficulty in turning: As the CV joint wears out, it may become difficult to turn the vehicle, especially at low speeds or when making sharp turns. This symptom is often accompanied by a clicking or popping sound.
5. Uneven tire wear: A failing CV joint can lead to uneven tire wear. If the CV joint is damaged or worn, it can cause the axle to wobble or vibrate, resulting in uneven tire tread wear. This can be observed by visually inspecting the tires and noticing uneven patterns of wear.
Relationship to the Axle:
The CV joint is an integral part of the axle assembly. It connects the transmission to the wheels and allows smooth power delivery to the wheels while accommodating the up-and-down motion of the suspension. The axle shaft is responsible for transmitting torque from the transmission to the CV joints and ultimately to the wheels.
Axles contain one or more CV joints, depending on the vehicle’s drivetrain configuration. In front-wheel drive vehicles, each front axle typically has two CV joints, one inner and one outer. Rear-wheel drive and all-wheel drive vehicles may have CV joints on both the front and rear axles.
The CV joint consists of a joint housing, bearings, and internal ball bearings or rollers. It is protected by a rubber or thermoplastic CV joint boot, which seals in the grease and protects the joint from contaminants. When the CV joint fails, it can affect the axle’s ability to transmit power smoothly and result in the symptoms mentioned above.
Regular inspection and maintenance of the CV joint and axle assembly are crucial to identify and address any issues promptly. If any of the symptoms mentioned earlier are observed, it is recommended to have the vehicle inspected by a qualified mechanic to determine the exact cause and perform necessary repairs or replacements.
What are the signs of a worn or failing axle, and how can I troubleshoot axle issues?
Identifying the signs of a worn or failing axle is important for maintaining the safety and functionality of your vehicle. Here are some common signs to look out for and troubleshooting steps you can take to diagnose potential axle issues:
- Unusual Noises:
- Vibrations:
- Uneven Tire Wear:
- Difficulty Steering:
- Visible Damage or Leaks:
- Professional Inspection:
If you hear clunking, clicking, or grinding noises coming from the area around the wheels, it could indicate a problem with the axle. These noises may occur during acceleration, deceleration, or when turning. Troubleshoot by listening carefully to the location and timing of the noises to help pinpoint the affected axle.
A worn or failing axle can cause vibrations that can be felt through the steering wheel, floorboard, or seat. These vibrations may occur at certain speeds or during specific driving conditions. If you experience unusual vibrations, it’s important to investigate the cause, as it could be related to axle problems.
Inspect your tires for uneven wear patterns. Excessive wear on the inner or outer edges of the tires can be an indication of axle issues. Misaligned or damaged axles can cause the tires to tilt, leading to uneven tire wear. Regularly check your tires for signs of wear and take note of any abnormalities.
A worn or damaged axle can affect steering performance. If you experience difficulty in steering, such as stiffness, looseness, or a feeling of the vehicle pulling to one side, it may be due to axle problems. Pay attention to any changes in steering responsiveness and address them promptly.
Inspect the axles visually for any signs of damage or leaks. Look for cracks, bends, or visible fluid leaks around the axle boots or seals. Damaged or leaking axles can lead to lubrication loss and accelerated wear. If you notice any visible issues, it’s important to have them inspected and repaired by a qualified mechanic.
If you suspect axle issues but are unsure about the exact cause, it’s advisable to seek a professional inspection. A qualified mechanic can perform a thorough examination of the axles, suspension components, and related systems. They have the expertise and tools to diagnose axle problems accurately and recommend the appropriate repairs.
It’s important to note that troubleshooting axle issues can sometimes be challenging, as symptoms may overlap with other mechanical problems. If you’re uncertain about diagnosing or repairing axle issues on your own, it’s recommended to consult a professional mechanic. They can provide a proper diagnosis, ensure the correct repairs are performed, and help maintain the safety and performance of your vehicle.
editor by CX 2024-03-28